Bovlei’s new range of irreverently packaged wines demonstrates the versatility of Wellington’s sun-loving vines… and the fact that this cellar has a darn good head for business
Written by Jocelyn Warrington
Midway between the bright lights of Cape Town and the statuesque mountains of the Western Cape lies the fertile Wellington valley, considered by many to be the cradle of the South African wine industry (hardly surprising considering that more French Huguenots settled here than anywhere else in the Cape). The area’s hot, dry summers and rich soils – assets that earned it last year’s Top Terroir Region award – may have produced countless award-winning classic-style wines, but, now, they’re also being reaped to introduce a range of lesser-known varietals to South African wine enthusiasts. Bovlei Cellars, the country’s second oldest co-operative winery, has pulled the proverbial rabbit out the hat by harvesting Malbec, Carignan, Sangiovese, Grenache Blanc and other “New World” grapes to craft six feisty wines with structure and flavour profiles largely unfamiliar to South African Pinotage-, Merlot- and Chenin Blanc-accustomed palates.
As a nod to the countries that made each varietal famous, the wines are named after a different hat – the label for the Malbec, for example, displays the Gaucho Campero worn by the Argentinean cowboys in the country inextricably linked to the Malbec grape; the Carignan, meanwhile, dons a jaunty French beret and the Barbera a decidedly debonair Italian Fedora. Cellar master Frank Meaker describes the range – quirkily named Mad Hatters’ – as “fruity, supple and easy drinking… made for immediate enjoyment and fun in the sun.”
Not too much fun, mind you… as they say, it’s tricky to straighten a hat on a drunken head.
The plucky Spaniard
Picture a lively little bar off the Plaza del Castillo in steaming Pamplona; add the strum of the gittern, a plate or two of fiery pintxos and a few glasses of slightly chilled Mourvèdre (or Monastrell, as the locals call it)… it doesn’t get more Spanish than this. Rich, earthy and brimful with black- and blueberries, Mad Hatters’ The Flamenco Hat boasts a higher-than-average alcohol content, which produces an enticing tickle on the tongue. Don’t get too attached to it, though, or you may just fancy yourself fit to take on the bulls.
The flirtatious French
Take the classical elegance of Jeanne Moreau, immaculately turned out in couture hat and tailored suit, and pair it with the raw sensuality of Brigitte Bardot, immodestly turned out in straw hat and birthday suit, and you have the makings of a Grenache Blanc-Roussanne blend. Fragrant and feminine yet fruity and feisty, The Cloche Hat encapsulates the stylish-sexy dichotomy epitomised by the bell-shaped hats worn by 1920s French fashionistas. Great with everything from a box of popcorn to a peach-and-Pecorino platter, its buttery, mineral flavour is one you won’t forget… no matter how much you have.
The hot-blooded Gaucho
The grape is Malbec and the dance is the tango… and, brother, this wine is only for the most parched of palates and passionate of hearts. Argentina’s national favourite, Malbec combines the intensity of juicy plums with the brooding, sensual appeal of dark chocolate and tobacco. Named after the iconic headgear worn by the rugged cattlemen of the Pampas, The Gaucho Hat’s soft tannins and herbaceous nose make it the perfect partner to grilled rump or chilli-spiked pizza. Down a glass or two, cue the accordion and take Sannie for a spin on the dance floor… tango, South African style.
Mad Hatters’ wines are available for R39.95 a bottle from Ultra Liquors.
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